Friday, May 6, 2016

Madrid, Spain

Our adventures in Espana continue...

We took the train from Barcelona to Madrid.  Let me just say...being in a foreign country where you don't understand the language is like watching a movie with the sound down.  You kind of understand what's going on but not really.  That was very evident today when we took the train.

If there's any language I should have learned, it was Spanish.   I really did try to communicate but after exhausting my not so extensive vocabulary, I gave up.  Next time...
Anyhoo, we found our place on the train and made it to Madrid.  I like traveling by train.  It's a lot less hassle than going to the airport.  Plus you get to see stuff...Like the Spanish countryside.
When we go on vacation, I'm the navigator...which is ironic because I get turned around coming out of my neighborhood.

Madrid is a lot different than Barcelona but the difference is hard to put my finger on.  Granted, I've only been here half a day but I feel like it's a lot busier.  Restaurants don't open until 8 pm.  The places that are open are touristy and the service is not so good.

We stopped at this place in Plaza Santa Ana for a snack and a drink.  While the Sangria was delicious, the service was like pulling teeth to get anyone to help us.
Not much happening on Day 1 in Madrid.  This is our hotel - The Westin Palace, which is very nice and in a great location.  Everything is within a reasonable walking distance.

Day 2 in Madrid - Starts with a cuppa Joe from Starbucks and then the Hop on/Hop off city tour.  There are two routes.  The first route (Ruta 2) took us by the Real Madrid Futbol stadium.
There was a flurry of activity going on and we were wondering if there was a game today.  The rest of the tour on Route 2 was rather boring...Except we did pass by the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas - the bullring.
 
I'd almost like to see a bullfight because I've never seen one (unless you count the number of times Bugs Bunny fought that bull) but would it be wrong to cheer for the bull?

We got off the bus and found a place for lunch that was surprisingly good.  It was a "combo" meal that came with an appetizer, a main and a drink.  (Beer, wine, soda, whatever you want, says our waiter).  Well, it if comes with the meal...I choose wine.  I kid you not, the waiter brought me a bottle and said, "Drink however much you want."  Was he kidding?  I love this country!
I would like to go on record and say I didn't drink the whole bottle.  Also the risotto with mushrooms was very tasty.
 
This little scene is called "Bored while waiting on the bus".  The rest of the bus tour was kind of interesting.  We drove by lots of architecturally cool buildings.  Below are random photos from the tour.
 
Catedral de la Almudena.
The city of Madrid.
Bascilica de San Francisco Grande.
Cathedral Church of St. Michael Military.
A guy on the street.

Fuente de Neptuno.
Cybele Palace (Palacio de Communications).

Some random factoids.  Did you know the Spaniards (or maybe all Europeans and I never noticed) wear their wedding bands on the right hand?  About 80% of the people here smoke even though you can't smoke inside.  If you eat at a restaurant and sit outside, you pay more than if you sit inside.  It's okay, though because the food and alcohol is really inexpensive! Spain still has a monarch...Felipe VI.  The European carryall?  Very popular here.  They all seem to wear the same kind of jacket - like it's 30 degrees or something.  It's a quilted-looking jacket that kind of reminds me of a ski jacket.  Today it was 82 degrees and the scarves and jackets were out in full force.
 
This is the jacket!  Seriously! 

Day 2 ends with some ridiculously good Argentinian food.  We found this restaurant on Yelp.  It was down this tiny little side street that you wouldn't have even looked twice at.  But it was so good!  We had Pincho de tortilla - which was like a scalloped potato pie; Bunuelos de spinaca - spinach with rocotta cheese rolled into a ball and fried; Albondegas - meatballs; and Ricotta Empanadas - these were like little flaky pies with ricotta cheese. 

Day 3 in Madrid starts once again with a cuppa java from Starbucks.  I think they are trying to see how many ways they can misspell John's name.  First it was Jonh and today it was Jhon.  Tomorrow he's going to tell them his name is Othello.

We spent the better part of the day at the Prado museum.
 
No photos inside.  I think we were there for a good four hours or so.  They had paintings by Rubens, Valasquez, El Greco and several other artists that I'd never heard of.  It was amazing.
 
After the museum, we walked around a bit and came across the Monument for the Fallen Heroes.  I think it's like the tomb of the unknown soldier.  There's an eternal flame there as well.
Fuente de Apolo on Paseo de Prado.
Fuente de las cibres. (The goddess of fertility sitting a chariot pulled by two lions).
La Puerta Alcala...at least its not an Arc de triomf.
Then we went in search of refreshments and found ourselves back in Plaza de Santa Ana.  This is the Teatro de Espanol de Madrid where they have various plays.
Real Academy Espanola (Royal Spanish Academy).
 
Iglesia de San Jose.
Puerta del Sol - Appropriately named.  When you walk down there in the late afternoon, the sun is blinding!
The police were out in full force...on a Wednesday! 
 
They are well armed with some kind of assault weapons.  I think I feel safer?  And so ends Day 3 with a little culture and Chinese food.  Tomorrow the palace!

Day 4 requires a Cafe Americano for the caffeine boost and then it's off to the Palace.
On the way, we passed by a few things of interest.  Plaza Mayor built during the reign of Phillip III.  All the buildings that surround the plaza are residences.
Casa de la Villa are apartments you can rent in lieu of a hotel.  Next time!
Iglesia del Sacramento (Military Cathedral of Spain).


And finally, Palacio Real, which is the official residence of the King of Spain, Felipe VI.  He doesn't actually live here but conducts all official visits here
The palace without our big heads in the way.  The original burned down in 1734 and King Philip V had it rebuilt on the same site.  Construction was completed in 1755.  The last monarch to live here was Alfonso XIII, who died in 1931.
 
View of Madrid from the palace.
Dinking around in the guard house.

When you enter the palace and climb the stairs to the next floor, this is the ceiling.  
The fresco was painted by Giaquinto.  Not sure who that is but he did a lot of paintings in the palace.  Once you go through here, no photos inside.  Too bad because it was gorgeous.  A good place for people watching as well.
 
After the palace, we found a place off the beaten path for lunch.  Another "combo" meal.  I had paella, which was way better than what I had in Barcelona, and grilled fish.  John had chicken soup and baked chicken.  This was our most challenging lunch because the waiter didn't speak any English.  We were able to communicate well enough to order.  John asked for water and got the bottle below.
Agua con gas.  Uh-oh.  It tasted like tonic water.
After lunch, it was on to Catedral Almudena, which was built by King Alfonso XII to bury his wife, Merecedes of Orleans.  Construction began in 1878 and was completed in 1992.  It's directly across the Plaza de la Armeria.
The inside of the church is gorgeous.  It's a functioning church, as are most of the historic churches in Madrid.
We found this statue of a guy leaning on the railing.  You can't pass that up.
On the way back to the hotel, we passed the mercado San Miguel.  It was the same kind of market as they had in Barcelona but not quite as big.  We walked through and for 2 euros, John got a big bag of chicharones (fried pork rinds).

Some of the American fast food chains have invaded Spain:  McDonalds, which I think is everywhere.  Burger King, KFC and Subway.  We saw Taco Bell while we were on the tour bus.  And this last one is kind of disappointing...Steak and Shake.  Really?  Blech!

So here it is, our last day in Spain.  We got up to get our last cup of coffee.
 
The baristas mess with him, he messes with them.  Ringo?  Really?

We spent our last day at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza.  This was a private collection of paintings that were sold to Spain in 1993.  We chose the busiest time to go, of course, because we love crowds of people.

This guy was a serious collector.  He had paintings by Manet, Van Gogh, Monet, Matisse, you name it!  Here were some that I liked.
I don't recall the name of the painter but I liked the picture because it reminded me of John.  The guy looks like he's dying for his wife to stop talking.
 This was Camille Pissarro - a scene in Paris.
This is a Caravaggio - St. Catherine of Alexandria - Beheaded because she refused the advances of some prince.
I think this one was a Pissarro as well.  When you back away, the picture is very obvious.
Up close you can see the brush strokes and there's no definition.  I don't have a lot of art knowledge but I just thought it was cool.

For our last meal we wandered around and found a hole in the wall place and had oxtail.  That and Sangria made a hell of a good dinner.

Tomorrow we head home back to reality.  I'm ready.  After being in this country for over a week, it makes me wonder why it wasn't higher on our list of places to visit.  Madrid and Barcelona - like two sisters that were kind of the same but completely different.  Both places had lots to offer and I highly recommend a visit.

Adios, Madrid!  Muchas Gracias!





Sunday, May 1, 2016

Barcelona, Spain

Bienvenidos mi amigos!

Yeah, it's okay.  They didn't understand me in Spain either.

We started our vacation with a lovely text message from British Airways..."Dear Ms. Chaney, your flight has been cancelled.  We apologize for the inconvenience."  What???  We were supposed to fly out that night!

Luckily American Airlines (who also cancelled my flight but neglected to inform me) was able to rebook us on an earlier flight.  We had to scramble because of course we hadn't packed yet.

It all worked out in the end and the next day, we were in Barcelona.  Crisis averted!  We stayed at the Alexandria, Doubletree Hotel right in the shopping district.  That's right, the Rolex store was right next to our hotel and Cartier was across the street.  Too bad I wasn't in the market for a watch.

The first day was crazy.  After a short nap, we grabbed a coffee and just started walking, stopping and resting along the way.
A guy on a bench sipping coffee and people watching.
We walked down to Placa de Catalunya, which is famous for the fountains.  It's a big plaza and there are two twin fountains that are beautiful.
However, it should really be called "Pigeon Plaza".  There were more pigeons than people!
The requisite selfie in Placa de Catalunya.  Speaking of selfies...everybody had a self-stick.  OMG!  You couldn't move two feet without someone poking you with one of those things.  And if you didn't have one?  No problem!  There was a guy on every corner selling them.
The theory is that if you drink from this fountain (Font de Canaletes) you'll come back to Barcelona.  There was a dog drinking from there earlier.  Seems a little unsanitary.  I'll just save my money and come back that way.
Gorgeous...and the fountain looks nice too!
Then we walked down La Rambla through the Gothic area.  It was a very cool street with lots of shops and cafes.
We walked all the way down to the Port of Barcelona.  Some folks there had some serious cash.  We saw lots of really nice yachts.
This was just random.  Along the port wall (the beachfront), there was this statue of a shrimp.  Crazy Spaniards!
Then on the map we saw there was an Arc.  It's the Arc de triomf.  There was this long promenade to the Arc that was really beautiful.  It was built as a gateway to the 1888 World's Fair.
Day 1 ends at the Catedral of Barcelona.  The construction of this cathedral was completed in the 15th century.  We didn't get go in this evening but it was lit up and beautiful.  Another day and we'll try again.

Day 2 was the Hop on/Hop off city tour.  I love these tours.  For $25 (-ish) you get driven around the city where all the cool stuff is pointed out to you.  If you see something you like, get off and check it out, then catch the next bus...or, if you're lazy like me, make a note and go back later.

We did get off to check out the Montjuic cable car.
This cable car which is a million feet in the air (okay, maybe not quite a million feet but it's really high!) takes you from the Mirimar Hotel to this platform out in the Port.  The views were amazing!  So that's the tiny little car we were riding in.
 
And that tall structure linked to those thin little cables way far away is where we're headed.  I'm just glad it wasn't too windy at that point.
John's pretty happy about that, too!
Meanwhile, the views are fantastic.  A view of Barcelona from the cable car.
The Port of Barcelona from up above.  That beautiful water would be the Mediterranean Sea.
Waiting for the bus to come back and pick us up so we don't have to walk down the mountain.
 
The next stop was Camp Nou.  I'm not sure if you've heard but apparently there's a very popular sport here called futbol and Barcelona has a team.
Soccer is kind of weird in that the team wears their sponsor's corporate logo on their shirts.  FC Barcelona is sponsored by Qatar Airways so that's what their jerseys have on the front.
So there's this guy, Antoni Gaudi.  It would seem that he designed several of the buildings in this city.  This one is called Casa Batllo.  The roof is supposed to look like a slayed dragon.  The building has stained glass and the façade is very curvy.  While it used to be a house, now it's more like an event facility.  You can rent out the rooms to host your favorite events.
This one is called Casa Mila.  The façade of the building is also curvy like the waves of the ocean.  Now it's a UNESCO World Heritage site.  You can pay to go in and check it out.
On the top of the building are chimneys (yup!  That's a chimney) and they are sculpted to look like warriors.  He designed another building that's still in the works.  You may have heard of it...Sagrada Familia.  More on that later.
And then there was this.  I have no idea what's going on here.  It's called Torre Agbar.  Designed by Jean Nouvel, it's supposed to make you think of a geyser rising in the air.  John called it the "love missile".  I am so sorry!  Insert your own joke here...
The food here is excellent.  We've had tapas, tapas and more tapas.  A bit of refreshment.  I'll let you guess which drink belongs to John.
This is croquettes (the fried thing).  It's stuffed with ham and béchamel sauce.  The other plate is chorizo.  Not quite the same stuff you get at home but it's good.
This last thing was a Spanish omelet with toast.  The bread is a baguette with tomatoes and olive oil.  Oh, kids!  Now we're talking.

And so ends Day 2.  Lots of bus riding, a flurry of architectural landmarks and lots of good tapas.  What more could you want?

Day 3 begins with a Café Americano and graham crackers.  I've juiced up my fitbit and we're off!
First stop is the Museo Picasso.  The museum actually takes up five stone mansions that are down this winding little side street.  We bought tickets in advance so that we wouldn't have to wait in line but then couldn't find where to go so we could jump ahead.  Luckily, there was a docent there to tell us we were doing it wrong.
No photos inside the museum.  This is a courtyard between two of the mansions.  I asked John for one (a courtyard) and he said...no.  Anyway, I always assumed that Picasso only did the cubist thing, which I'm not really fond of.  BUT, when he was fourteen, he actually painted portraits that resembled people.  He was quite good.
After the museum, we did the "church tour".  This one is Basilica Santa Maria del Mar (Saint Maria by the sea) built in the 1300's.  It was rather austere but I think that was the style.  It looks a bit like Notre Dame.
The inside is nice. I had to light a candle for my dad and my Gem.
So every time we leave the U.S., we have this quest to find a Dr. Pepper.  Every single time, we've been able to find one in some obscure grocery store (or super marcat, if you're in Barcelona).  They aren't in every store, like at home.  This particular one was actually "bottled" in the UK.  Go figure!
Next was the Catedral de Barcelona.  We got there in time to go inside and they were doing some kind of service.  I could smell the incense that made me pass out once when I was a kid.
The inside is beautiful, though crowded.  Most of it was off limits.
I don't really know what this is.  I saw it and thought it looked kind of cool.
Last one...This is Basilica Santa Maria del Pi (Saint Mary of the Pine Tree). 
This one looks a lot like the other one.  Not surprising since it was built around the same time.  This is the front.  Lots of stained glass and the requisite rose window.  All three of the churches we saw had the rose window.
After a quick bite, it was off to Palau Guell, a Palace designed by everyone's favorite whimsical architect, Antoni Gaudi.  This is the rooftop (you couldn't get a photo of the whole structure).  All of these things are chimneys.  Every room in this place had a fireplace (no central heat back then).  Twenty chimneys in all.
I will say that the inside is very cool.  On the second level, was a general purpose room where Mass could be held or guests could be entertained.  The third floor held bedrooms, all of which had a little closet like room with a window looking over the general purpose room so that you could attend Mass without being seen...in your jammies!  It was built between 1885 and 1890.  The dome over the main room (the general purpose room - though I'm sure it's called something more proper), had holes (aka skylights) to let in natural light. You can see the dots on the dome in the photo, which doesn't do it justice.
 
Heading back to the hotel along La Rambla, we saw this market and had to go in. La Boqueiria.  It was John's idea.  I know what you're thinking...look at all those people.  John hates people.  But we joined the fray and walked around.  It was similar to a market we went to in Taipei.
They had all kinds of fruit including mangos and papayas.  They had one I hadn't even heard off that was red.  All the cut up fruit came with a little fork so you could eat it right there.
Then they had cases and cases of empanadas that looked delicious.  I would like to eat there but there were sooooo many people.  Nothing like getting jostled around when you're trying to eat.  One woman said, "Excuse me," and then barreled right into me.  Sheesh!

15,000 steps later, we get back to the hotel for a much needed rest.

That evening we attended a Flamenco concert.  We were up in the nosebleeds so we couldn't see very well (and no photos inside anyway) but it was very cool.
 
Our last full day in Barcelona was spent at one of the most magnificent churches I've ever seen.  Sagrada Familia.
I could probably do a whole blog on just the church but I'll just hit the highlights.  Construction began in 1882 and was taken over by Antoni Gaudi in 1883 when Gaudi was 31 years old.  He worked on this church the rest of his life.  (He died at age 74 when he was hit by a train).
You can pretty much see this church from various spots in the city.  It's identifiable because of the cranes.  (Pardon the selfie).  There are three facades:  One is the nativity, the second is the Passion and the third is the Glory.
There are to be eighteen spires:  One for each of the twelve apostles, one for the four evangelicals (Matthew, Mark, Luke & John), one for the Virgin Mary and then the tallest one for Jesus.  Eight of them have been completed to date.
This façade is the Nativity scene and was completed first, between 1894 and 1930.  The amount of detail is unbelievable.  There's a lot going on here.  First there's the birth of Jesus.  
Then there are separate scenes all over the front depicting the Immaculate Conception, Jesus in the temple, the visit between Elizabeth and Mary.  Look at it!  It's truly overwhelming.  (The guy in the hat is our guide, Josep.  He was a wealth of knowledge!)
 
The Passion façade is very austere.  This particular scene is where Jesus falls the second time and Veronica wipes his face with the veil.  Picasso's cubism was in fashion at the time and you can see that several of the figures are very cube-like.  The other controversial part of the scene is that Jesus is naked on the cross.  The Archbishop didn't like that but the artist disagreed.
This is the apse.  All the columns are load bearing (as opposed to the walls).
This is the inside wall for the entrance that we came in (with all the decorations).  The stained glass was amazing.  All the lower windows were flooded with color.
Another of the stained glass windows.  So, the work they still have to do is complete the remaining eight towers and finish the expansion of the church.  In order to complete the expansion of the church, they have to buy the property directly across the street (one entire city block) by convincing the owners to sell.  Then they have to demolish the buildings on the property, build the tunnel over the street and then complete the church.  Estimated completion date?  2026.  Considering they haven't even purchased the property, I'm thinking they aren't going to hit that date.  Meanwhile, the church is absolutely beautiful. 
After the church, a small snack before heading back to the hotel for a bit of a nap.  Strawberry gelato.
Last dinner in Barcelona...starts with Sangria.  Yum!
We found something new.  These are "pinchos" which are crusts of bread with something on them.  The one on the left has crab and on the right is spicy pork with cheese au gratin.  The crab was more like crab salad - kind of mayonaisse-y.  The pork one was delicious.
We couldn't come to Spain without trying Paella, or "Rice with shit in it" as John calls it.  I usually see it with seafood.  This one is chicken (like chicken wings) with veggies.  It wasn't bad but it's mostly rice.
One last look at Gaudi.  There are these cool street lamps on one of the main streets here that were designed by Gaudi.  They have these benches at the bottom and I just thought they were so cool.  In the background you can see Casa Mila with the crazy chimneys that look like warriors.

Barcelona has been surprisingly wonderful.  I really want to come back in 2026 to see how far they've come with the church.  Tomorrow we're off to Madrid via train.  I'm looking forward to it.

Below is a movie that I took of La Sagrada Familia.  You can hear our guide telling us about part of the Basilica.  Enjoy.